The Gallina fish stall is a feast for the eyes, even more than for the palate. Mackerel, scorpion fish, gurnard, white sea bream, hake, gilt-head bream, bonito, cuttlefish and herring are all on display on an immaculate bed of ice. Giuseppe Benedetto “Beppe” Gallina is often to be found behind the counter dispensing advice, suggesting recipes and telling anecdotes. He does so by right as he’s been running the stall since 1984 and represents the fourth generation of a family that has been working at the Porta Palazzo market since 1920. He says that almost 90% of the fish on show is fresh, brought in every day (Mondays excepted) mostly from nearby Liguria. If you wish you to taste the fish on the spot, there are two large restaurant spaces, one inside, the other outside. Beppe suggests you sample more than just the usual fritto misto, mixed fry, but to choose from the blackboard, which features four or five different dishes every day. Some of them are made with varieties that aren’t easy to find, here today but maybe only available again after several months, depending on the catch. In addition to Piazza della Repubblica, fresh fish may be ordered and collected (cleaned and ready to cook) on the new premises in Via Baretti 25, in the San Salvario quarter, which also has 50 or so covers.