What still hasn’t been said about Beppe Gallina – that’s what they all call him, though his real surname’s Benedetto (Gallina was his mother’s maiden name)? For 40 years now he has been running the business established by his great-grandmother Rosa almost a century ago (they’ll be celebrating the centenary in two years’ time), always faithful to the idea of selling fresh, sustainable fish with total respect for seasonality, banning intensive breeding farms and favouring fresh fish from the Ligurian Sea between the Cinque Terre and Ventimiglia. His great insight in the days when all the talk was about tuna and sea bass was to sell minor, lesser known fish such as albacore and bonito, picarel and white sea bream, without of course forgetting the old classics, anchovies and sardines. Three years ago the stall moved opposite the farmers’ wing of the market and now also serves excellent gourmet dishes to eat in loco. Closed on Sunday and Monday.